%20of%20logo2_02.jpg) |
|
HOME DIRECT DRIVE ANTI REVERSE MAXUM TEMPLE FORK OUTFITTERS NEWS & FAQ'S SALTWATER FLIES ACCESSORIES ROGUES GALLERY PROFILE MAKING A HAYDEN REEL FISHING AUSTRALIA CONTACT US LINKS |
|
|
|
HOME DIRECT DRIVE ANTI REVERSE MAXUM TEMPLE FORK OUTFITTERS NEWS & FAQ'S SALTWATER FLIES ACCESSORIES ROGUES GALLERY PROFILE MAKING A HAYDEN REEL FISHING AUSTRALIA CONTACT US LINKS |
NEWS & FAQ's
MILITARY GRADE, TYPE III HARD ANODISING
All Hayden Reels are available in Military Grade, Type III Hard Anodising. This coating is much more durable than Type II Anodising and eliminates "Boat Rash" (scratching of the surface) and the need for regular servicing.
What is the best protection for the
aluminium?
Type II Anodising is done by dipping the aluminium in an acid bath which is at room temperature and introducing an electrical charge to the bath. The process "corrodes" the surface of the aluminium and leaves it a dull silver colour. The Anodising process gives a protection to approximately 25 microns. The product is then dipped in a colour until the required shade is achieved and then boiled to "set" the colour. The problem is that the colour can be scratched easily but this does not necessarily mean that the coating is depleted.
By far the best protection is to Type III Hard Anodise. By using a different acid and then reducing the temperature of the bath to minus 6 degrees Celsius and increasing the electrical charge, the process grows Aluminium Oxide into and onto the surface of the aluminium and it has a minimum depth of 30 microns (Hayden reels are done to Military Grade, at 60+ microns) and a Rockwell C Impact Test of 60 gives an indication as to the hardness of the coating. A file, which is made from tool steel has a Rockwell C test of 72, so the coating is very abrasive resistant.
The only problem is that it
cannot be coloured. Depending on
the grade of aluminium, (6061 will always be grey) the colour will be from grey
to black and will be a satin finish.
Hayden Reels are polished to a high lustre, but this is a time consuming process due to the hardness of the
coating.
*******
Joint
Venture of Hayden Reels & Temple Fork Outfitters
As of 15th
September 2005, I have gone into a joint venture with Temple Fork Outfitters in
the USA and they are manufacturing my “Striker” Series of reels in slightly
different dimensions. The product
will be manufactured in Korean under strict quality control, which will enable
Temple Fork Outfitters to confidently market the product with my complete backing.
The design features are the same as the Hayden Reel “Striker” Series and I have been extensively involved in the production of the proto-types and am very impressed with the quality control involved in the development of the reel.
The Hayden/TFO I & II reels are now available and as a result, I am able to offer the Temple Fork Outfitters reels and their range of rods for sale. For prices consult the TFO page of my web site.
*******
What grade of
Aluminium should be used?
The best grade for this application is to use 6061 T6 where the T6 is the
temper of the material, making it much less susceptible to distortion due to the
hardness.
Anti
Reverse V Direct Drive
Direct Drive reels are the mainstay of the salt
water fly
fishing market and I believe that this is due to the fact that all freshwater
reels are that design, but as you get into the bigger fish categories of salt
water fly fishing, Anti-Reverse becomes a very good option. If this was not so, why is it that every overhead game
fishing reel is Anti-Reverse?
There are those that believe that you cannot
control a fish as well with an AR reel but I disagree with this concept.
When fighting a big fish on lighter tippet, why would you wish to hold a
fish in position instead of allowing it to fight to the stage where it can be
landed or released. I believe that you need to learn how to use an AR reel, but
after 2 fish you will be in control of the situation and have no problem.
The advantage is that you will not injure knuckles or get a handle caught
in clothing or any similar disaster, which is caused by a fast spinning knob.
I have heard of a situation where the knob was actually broken off the
reel when it continuously hit the boat when a tuna took off.
How
to clean a Hayden Reel
If the reel has been Hard Anodised, cleaning is a simple procedure. Simply rinse the reel in fresh, warm soapy water and allow it to dry before storing it. This coating is indestructible and very little maintenance is needed.
If the reel is Type II anodised, the above procedure still applies but it
is necessary to wipe the reel over with a cloth which has been sprayed with a
small amount of water dispersant (WD40, CRC or similar) once it has dried.
Occasionally, it is advisable to remove the top 100+ yards of backing to
ensure that there is no salt build-up in the spool.
This is not necessary with the Hard Anodised reels.
When fishing for trout and freshwater species the build features of a reel are not as important as they are for a saltwater fly reel. When I first began this project, I built the reels to withstand any abuse that could be handed out. Over the years I have been able to fine tune the product to a stage where I have reduced the weight, but have noticed that fishermen are in the main less interested in the weight factor and want a reel that will do the required job. Having said that, it is still important to balance the rod/reel system, so when you select a reel, ensure that the rod/reel combination is not too butt heavy as this will put stress on your wrist and forearm during a long fishing session. An example of this is that a reel of around 10 ozs. will balance sufficiently to fish anywhere in the #7-#9 weight rod range and that is a rough guide as the weight difference between rods is so insignificant that after a full days casting you would not notice any difference in the stress on your body.
Sealed Drag Or Not
Sealed Drags may be a good concept, but I do not believe that they are practical when you are dealing with a salt water environment. I have a problem with any statement whereby a product is believed to be water and contamination proof. If you check your wrist watch, you will find that it is "Water Resistant" and that is where the problem begins. Nothing can be waterproofed for long term use as things wear and when they do, seals will leak, so I make my drag system so that it can be inspected to ensure the integrity of the system. As we all know, if something is going to break down, it will happen at the beginning of that lifetime trip when you are a days travel from anywhere and no chance of repairing the reel and if the drag is sealed, you have no idea what condition it is in.